Hirame is one of those fish that have a hundred different faces. The term can potentially refer to just about any white-fleshed flatfish, ranging from halibut to sole, flounder, fluke, or even turbot. The key to enjoying hirame responsibly is to discern which particular fish is actually available.

The best option that we can hope for here in the United States is Alaskan halibut. This fishery has served as a trend-setting example for progessive management and sustainable harvesting, with well-enforced regulations and thoughtful quota limits. In fact, Alaskan halibut is one of the most sustainable options at the sushi bar. The actual term for halibut in Japanese is dohyo.

If the fish is not halibut, the issue starts to get more complicated. First of all, the names "flounder" and "sole" are thrown around very liberally and often can be misleading. True sole occurs only in the Atlantic. This doesn't stop us from seeing several varieties of Pacific sole for sale in the seafood market, or seeing flounder on a menu when what's actually being served is sole or turbot. There are even large-scale fisheries in the Pacific that target "sole" even though the fish in question is technically a flounder. The technical term for flounder in Japanese is karei.

The presence of "California halibut" on the west coast doesn't make this any easier. California halibut is not a true halibut, but is sold as one nonetheless. They are smaller than true halibut and the fisheries are less sustainable, some even relying on set gillnets which are known to entangle and kill great white sharks.

The big problem with many sole and flounder fisheries is the methods that are used to catch the fish. These fish are generally bottom-trawled: a weighted net is dragged across the seabed to snare as many of these flatfish as possible. Unfortuantely, this kind of fishing causes a great deal of habitat disruption and the unnecessary mortality of cohabiting species. This is especially troublesome in the Atlantic.

So here's a quick cheat-sheet that will get around the thorniest parts of the hirame issue:

Alaskan halibut is far and away the best choice due to positive management and responsble fishing methods. Feel free to enjoy this as a standard item when you visit the sushi bar.

Pacific flounder (or sole, or plaice, or turbot) is the runner-up. Bottom trawling still occurs but population levels seem to be healthier than in the Atlantic. This fishery is in delicate shape and calls for some moderation.

California halibut caught with a hook-and-line or even a bottom trawl is a decent choice, but not a great one.

California halibut caught with a set gill-net doesn't merit our support. This fishery has a large amount of bycatch, and white shark populations are already in serious trouble.

Atlantic sole (or fluke, or plaice) and Atlantic halibut are unsustainable choices due to destructive fishing practices and low population levels. Try to order a more sustainable white fish, such as saba, aji, or suzuki if your local sushi resturant offers Atlantic sole as their hirame.

It's a complex issue, but with a few well-aimed questions we can recognize what's being offered to us as hirame and choose whether or not we want to support it.

Key Questions:

1) What kind of fish is your hirame?

2) If it is halibut: Where is the halibut from? (Alaska v. other)

If it is California halibut: How was it caught? (Hook-and-line v. Bottom-trawl v. Gillnet)

If it is flounder, fluke, or sole: Where is it from? (Pacific v. Atlantic)

3) Is your hirame always the same fish?

4) If the chef doesn't serve Alaskan halibut: Why don't you offer Alaskan halibut?